ACRYLIC KNIVES
ACRYLIC KNIFE BASICS
Willow Noir demonstrates some basic techniques for using any of our acrylic knives for knife play. Using an acrylic knife is safer than steel, but not without its risks - cuts can happen and you need to use them within your own risk profile. We recommend taking a class from a kinky local educator or BDSM professional for learning more about knife play.
ELECTRO KNIVES
ELECTRO PLAY WAND & BODY CONTACT SETUP
Willow Noir demonstrates setting up a neon wand / violet wand with a body contact pad / power tripper for electro play. If you're new to electro play entirely, we recommend taking a class or hiring a professional for instruction. There is much more to electro play than we've briefly demonstrated. We do not sell wands or power trippers. We recommend getting one from our friends at The Stockroom!
- Start with the wand unplugged from the wall outlet, and verify the switch on the device is off.
- insert the body contact pad's plug into the wand
- plug the wand into your outlet/extension cord
- put the pad against your skin, making good solid contact
- start at the lowest setting, you'll hear it click and hum.
- anyone you touch with your skin will receive a small shock. It shocks when connecting/disconnecting, but you can hold someone and they can shock others. This also means you can't be holding or sitting on the subject you want to shock.
ELECTRO KNIFE DEMONSTRATION
Willow Noir demonstrates some basic use on our electro knives for electro play with a body contact pad. ALWAYS start at the lowest setting. Use at your own risk, we accept no responsibility for your use of this product. We recommend taking classes and hiring professionals for education.
- With the body contact pad on, turn on the wand.
- put your fingers touching the screw closest to the blade tip. The blade is now electrified!
- the edge with the black coating; or the gray backside of a mirror is the conductive part.
-making contact will shock the subject!
BLADE REPLACEMENT
ACRYLIC KNIFE BLADE REPLACEMENT
If you want to change out your blade on your acrylic knife, it's fairly easy and only requires a screwdriver!
Please check for compatibility of handles. Gen 1 was made 2019-12/2024, and Gen2 is current. The Replacement Blade store item has a graphic with details.
- Unscrew the two handle screws
- peel the protective tape off the new blade
- place one handle on
- insert the barrel side into the screw hole closest to the blade tip
- hold it in with a finger tip
- place the other side of the handle on top, and insert the screw end. Give it a few turns to make sure its lined up.
- insert the other barrel and screw into the rear and turn in a few times. Use your fingers to line up the two sides where you want them and tighten the screws until they're snug.
Message us if you need additional parts or need any assistance.
SHEATHS
SAFE SHEATH GUIDELINES
Whether you're practicing solo or preparing for scene play, safe draw and re-sheathing technique is essential:
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Practice Drawing First: Never attempt a fast or blind draw during active play without slow, deliberate practice beforehand. Literally do it hundreds of repetitions.
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Parallel Insertion Alignment: Keep the blade strictly parallel to the sheath along both axes (front-to-back and side-to-side). Never force a blade into the sheath — if you feel resistance, STOP, withdraw, and realign.
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Guiding Technique: You can lightly use the thumb of your off-hand at the sheath mouth to help guide the spine of the blade inward. Always keep fingers clear of any sharp edges or tips.
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Situational Awareness: Always look at your sheath when re-inserting the blade. Never draw or sheath blindly, especially in crowded or active environments.
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Emergency Preparedness: Know your partner's risk profile and emergency medical preferences prior to knife play.
SAFETY DISCLAIMER
Acrylic blades are designed to snap under severe stress rather than cause severe bodily harm, but steel isn't.
Improper technique or force can still result in cuts or clothing damage. Use of these items is at the sole risk and responsibility of the operator.
CUSTOM MOUNTING INFO
The back of each sheath features a grid of unmarked mounting holes designed for custom rig integration, harness attachments, and belt mounting.
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Grid Pattern: Holes are spaced 20mm apart horizontally and vertically (standard grid pattern).
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Recommended Screw Hardware:
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Imperial: #8 diameter screws (approx. 3/8" length).
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Metric: M4 diameter screws (approx. 8mm length).
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Thread Type: Plastic self-tapping thread-rolling screws are ideal. Standard sheet metal screws also work well.
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If using machine thread screws, blind-tap the holes to #8 or M4 first.
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Custom Printing & Mods: Need custom 3D-printed mounting brackets, special clip adapters, or custom modifications? Message us — we love building custom gear!
TENSION ADJUSTMENT
On the back of each sheath near the mouth (where the blade enters), you will find a marked metric hex adjustment screw.
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Tool Required: 2.5mm Hex Key (included with your sheath).
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Screw Spec: M5x8mm ball detent set screw.
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How to Adjust: Turn clockwise to tighten the retention click; turn counter-clockwise to loosen. Small adjustments (1/8 to 1/4 turn) make a noticeable difference.
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Frequent adjustments can wear out the threads - it's best to use one sheath to one knife and set it.
STEEL KNIVES - BLUNT
This is a demo of our sharp Stainless Steel knives on skin.
TRIGGER WARNING: There is a section with blood at the end, and a screen before it. It shows a blunt knife causing a puncture wound on a thigh. WE DO NOT RECOMMEND YOU DO THIS - WE ARE PROFESSIONALS. The purpose is to show explicitly that blunt steel knives are NOT "safe".
SAFETY DISCLAIMER
Blunt steel knives are engineered to be safer, but they are never risk-free. Misuse, excessive pressure, or accidental slips can still cause severe puncture wounds or blunt-force tissue damage. Always exercise extreme caution and work strictly within your risk profile.
SENSATIONS AND MOTIONS
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Scrape (Negative Angle): Drag the blade along the skin with the spine leaning forward (negative angle) pulling toward you. This produces a scraping sensation with minimal risk of breaking skin. The closer the blade gets to perpendicular (90°), the sharper and more intense the sensation.
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Shave (Reverse Motion): Push the flat edge forward across the skin in reverse of the scrape. This glides smoothly across skin without cutting.
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Spine Scrape: Utilize the unsharpened top spine of the blade. This is the safest method for scraping sensations. (Note: If your model features decorative hooks or serrations on the spine, do not drag them across skin—their geometry can cause jagged skin tears).
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Slice: Because the edge is rounded/blunt, dragging it across skin creates pressure rather than a cut, but excessive speed or force should still be avoided.
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Puncture Warning: Blunt tips require high force to break skin, which results in jagged tearing rather than a clean cut. Never thrust or apply heavy downward tip pressure.
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Pommel Contact: Point the tip completely away from the subject and press the pommel (rear handle) into muscle or pressure points for targeted sensation.
BONUS USES:
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Wax Scraper: Excellent for heavy-duty wax removal compared to acrylic tools.
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Electro Play: Safe to use in combination with a body contact wand or power tripper for electro-sensation setup.
STEEL KNIVES - SHARP
DEMO
This is a demo of our sharp Stainless Steel knives on skin.
TRIGGER WARNING: BLOOD
DANGER – HIGH RISK TOOL: Live sharp edges carry inherent risks of deep lacerations and severe bleeding. Practice slow, deliberate technique and maintain a clean, distraction-free environment. NEVER run your fingers along the length of the edge—only touch perpendicular to test burrs.
AVOID
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We do NOT recommend using sharp steel blades for Electro Play or Violet Wand setups. Involuntary muscle spasms or sudden jolts from electrical stimulation can lead to accidental, severe lacerations to either the operator or the subject.
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We also recommend not using sharp knives for wax scraping, as the scraping motion is technically a "shave" and can cause cuts without intention.
SENSATIONS AND MOTIONS
- Scrape: Pull the blade with a negative angle. Moving closer to 90° dramatically increases the risk of slicing.
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Shave: Pushing the sharp edge forward along the skin will remove hair and cut any surface irregularities (moles, bumps, uneven skin). This motion dulls a live edge rapidly.
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Spine Scrape: Drag the flat, unsharpened spine along skin for safe scraping sensations. Keep live edges completely clear of contact.
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Slice: Drawing a live sharp blade across skin concentrates force on a tiny surface area and will cut very easily. Requires absolute control and slow, light pressure.
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Puncture Warning: DO NOT THRUST THE TIP. Tip punctures with sharp knives can cause immediate, deep wounds.
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Pommel Contact: Ensure the live edge and tip are turned safely away from all participants when utilizing the pommel for pressure point play.
KNIFE SHARPENING
videos and graphics coming soon!
Whether your blade is sharp or blunt, maintaining a clean, smooth edge is essential for safe play. Any burr, dent, or snag on a blade can tear skin or cause unwanted injury. Inspect your edge before every session.
EDGE GEOMETRY
The angle determines how sharp the knife is, which determines the function.
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Blunt Knives: Feature a wider, thicker 45-degree bevel. They take far less wear and require minimal sharpening, but they still need regular inspection to ensure no burrs or dings have formed.
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Sharp Knives: Feature a standard acute 15 degree angle. The edge must be 100% smooth before use. I recommend lightly stropping (see below) before serious play where I want the edge perfect.
MATERIAL GUIDE
The material is another factor in how you plan to maintain your piece.
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316 Stainless Steel: We specifically use 316 stainless for our stainless series because it is a softer, non-hardened alloy. Under stress, it will roll rather than chip, splinter, or crack, making it faster to maintain and much safer for specialized play. (Note: It is not intended for heavy utility tasks). Stainless steels do not need to be left with oil on the blade.
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Carbon Steel / Hardened Steels: Hardened steels hold a utility edge longer, but the hardening process makes the metal more brittle. Heavy impact or twisting can cause micro-chips or steel splinters. Non-stainless steels like 1084, 1095, 5160 should be left on oil to avoid rust. The oil has to be removed before use.
SAFETY WARNING: NEVER run your fingers along the length of the edge ("slicing" direction). Always test for a burr by feeling perpendicular (across) the edge.
THE SHARPENING PROCESS
The goal of sharpening is to grind the bevel until a uniform burr forms along one side, flip the burr to the opposite side, and then polish it off. Consistency in your stroke angle is key.
1. Setup & Angle Consistency
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Choose your abrasive—diamond stones are strongly recommended over traditional whetstones because they remain perfectly flat and won't hollow out over time.
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Lock in your angle (45° for blunt models) and maintain that exact angle for every single pass to avoid faceting the edge.
2. Grit Progression & Burr Formation
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400 Grit (Coarse / Shaping): Make consistent passes on Side A until you feel a distinct burr push through along the entire back side. Flip the blade and repeat on Side B until the burr flips back. (Once the burr is established, switch to trailing/backward drawing strokes only).
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1000 Grit (Fine Polish): Make light, alternating single passes on each side to refine the edge and remove scratches from the 400 grit.
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3000+ Grit / Ceramic (Super Fine): Perform 1–2 light backward draw passes per side to polish the bevel to a mirror finish.
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Leather Strop (Final Finishing): Mount a piece of tough veg-tan leather (suede side up) flat on a wooden block with wax-based abrasive compound. Make single backward draw passes per side until the burr is completely removed and the edge shines.
MAJOR EDGE REPAIRS
If your blade has deep nicks or a damaged tip, it must be re-profiled before standard sharpening. If you lack the right tools - we offer sharpening services if you get the knife back to us.
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Flatten the Damage: Grind the edge perpendicular against a coarse stone (or low-speed power tool) until all chips and nicks are completely ground out.
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Re-establish the Bevel: Work back with a 400-grit stone to rebuild the angle before moving into your normal grit progression.
CLEANING & STORAGE
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Sanitation: Always wash and sanitize your blades thoroughly before and after every session.
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Storage for Carbon Steel: Store carbon steel blades with a light coating of food-grade mineral oil to prevent rust. This oil should be removed and dried before use to avoid slips and mishandling.
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Storage for Stainless Steel: Any Stainless Steel does not require oiling for corrosion resistance—simply ensure it is clean and dry before storing.